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Bangkok Post March 1, 1998 BURMESE



Bangkok Post March 1, 1998 
BURMESE IN THAILAND

Life in the jungles
PHO PEIN

What I did the other day in Mae Hong Son was foolishly dangerous! The 
students camp known as Region Four is located in a deep jungle with no 
other means of transportation except for motorcycle or on foot. It is an 
hour and a half motorbike ride from Mae Hong Son.

A young student who met me in Mae Hong Son took me on his bike early in 
the morning. The roads to the camp were so narrow it wrapped around the 
side of the mountain like a long snake. Only half way on the trip I was 
told that my tour guide had never taken an outsider before into this 
camp, because no foreigner or journalist has been allowed to visit 
Region Four by the Thai police because of security reasons.

I was allowed through at the checkpoint after I convinced the Thai Army 
guard that I was actually a student. As I was riding into the thick 
jungle, the guide told me to be cautious, because only a few months ago, 
the Burmese Army ambushed the area killing three of his people. I began 
to feel a chill going through my body and I said to myself, "What 
happens if they attack us now?"

I began to get scared. I learned that the enemy base is only one mile 
away on the other side of the mountain. While holding my composure, I 
asked the guide why he did not tell me all this before. He said that he 
was instructed by the top people not to say anything.

Later I learned that they (student leaders) were afraid I'd not assist 
them and leave. They wanted me to witness the horrible living conditions 
of the students and refugees at the camp.

Then we reached the camp around 9 a.m. I was horrified to see how our 
own people were living a life that is beyond my wildest imagination - no 
electricity, no running water, living in a hut the size of a jail cell, 
rice with a few pinches of salt for almost everyday meals and to beat 
them all, they sleep every night enduring a bone-chilling cold weather 
under a blanket holed like a Swiss-cheese.

They were so happy to see me. All of them managed to smile despite their 
hardships. They decided to celebrate in my honour, one of the students 
ordered to the other students to slaughter a pig that is reserved for 
special occasions only. I quickly intercepted and said that I'd settle 
for a duck or chicken instead.

As we're eating, I found out that their primary concern is safety. Not 
long ago, the enemy army raided their camp in the afternoon killing a 
man and child. I provided them with one year supply of medicines, a 
cassette recorder and some cash.

While we were sitting around chatting, two young students came down from 
the mountain where they've been over the past few months with 20 other 
comrades after running out of food supplies. They are known to stake out 
for a long time to launch guerrilla warfare attacks against the Burmese 
Army. One of them reminds me of my cousin I have back home.

Before I left, I handed a gift and said that it might be useful in the 
jungle. They were my binoculars. They all took turns looking at them as 
if they were a God's sent gift. I gave them a motivational talk to keep 
their hopes up.

I knew if I did come back sometime in the future, some of them would not 
be around. They said goodbye to me, some holding back their tears. I 
asked them what they missed most living in the jungle, many of them said 
their 'mama'.

I am now back in Chiang Mai. I was not prepared for what awaited me on 
the evening of January 20. It's certainly one of the most unforgettable 
experiences for me.

As I and my tour guide, Suthep, were having dinner together, he 
mentioned about a brothel outside the city that has only Burmese girls. 
Since Suthep doesn't know that I am Burmese and he calls me "Tony," I 
let him take me there as my curiosity was at an all-time high.

When we entered a dimly lit basement-like room, I saw 10-15 girls aged 
between 15-21. None of them are allowed to go out unless escorted and 
are forced to stay there 24 hours a day - except when entertaining a 
customer in the back of the brothel.

Among them, I noticed a dark long-haired girl with a beautiful 
complexion looking at me innocently. I told Suthep that I wanted that 
girl. As she was preparing to come and sit next to me, another young 
girl (16 years-old) told her out loud in Burmese, "This Bogyi (white 
man) appears to be a nice man, don't be afraid, Ama (sister)."

Then I realised not all of them were Burmese since no one seemed to 
understand what this little girl was talking about to her sister. She 
sat next to me sheepishly not saying a word unless she was asked. She 
and no other girls had a clue that I was Burmese or spoke Burmese.

At the same time, my attention was drawn to this young, cute girl. Her 
dark eyes were so round she actually looked like a doll.

I turned around and said to Suthep that I wanted that girl, too. Then 
Suthep and the manager (pimp) seemed genuinely stunned because they are 
not used to having a customer who made such a request, especially when 
the two are sisters.

Here comes the difficult task. I knew that the only way I would get them 
to talk was to take them back to my hotel. It was unacceptable to the 
manager since they never allow the girls to go out. Finally, on a 
bargaining table, they hit me with a ridiculous price of Bt7,000 that 
would otherwise be Bt300. I settled for Bt5,000 under one condition that 
they be taken to a nearby motel.

While Suthep guarded outside, the sisters and I entered the room. As 
soon as we got in, the young sharp-tongued girl handed me half a dozen 
condoms. She later told me that her father, a Muslim, abused her since 
she was five years- old.

While they both sat on a couch not knowing what my next move was, I 
spoke Burmese to them for the first time. They were in awe and broke 
down. I told them I wasn't here for pleasure but wanted to know how they 
ended up in a joint like this and how I could help them.

They said they had been here only two months. There are actually four 
sisters, two of whom were left behind in the brothel. They are from 
Rangoon and were conned into coming here under the pretense that they 
would be given a singing job in Thailand. They even went to the same 
school as my own sisters did.

I asked if they would sneak out right now and I'd send them to a safe 
haven. Unfortunately, the oldest sister is very Christian and religious. 
The others wanted to run for their lives, but couldn't because the 
eldest would not go for fear that God has reason to put her in that 
hell-hole. She adamantly believes that it is her Karma.

After 3 hours of talking (what was supposed to be something else) I gave 
them some money in case they need if they plan to escape.

In the end, they both hugged me so tight that it was indeed 
heart-breaking. As I said "goodbye", they looked at me as though a ray 
of hope for them to be with their family was fading away into the 
twilight zone. 

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